Showing posts with label tyro workshop. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tyro workshop. Show all posts

Saturday, 4 February 2017

Restoration - Day 6

Day 6 - Restoration (03.02.17)

Day 6 was a day of great progress but not much to see in photographs.  

First of all Leif dropped all his fluids:

Radiator drained

I thought the radiator was still the original Land Rover radiator; sadly it turned out to be a Holden one, and a very brittle one at that!  New radiator needed.

 Foul smelling engine oil drained, followed by the gearbox and transfer box

 My restored dash panel was carefully removed to avoid damage

Red wires galore!  Wiring is a complete mess presumably mucked about with when the Holden engine was installed.  It is all getting ripped out and replaced with a new harness from Autosparks in the UK.


Not much to see in this photo, but the engine is totally disconnected and ready to be separated from the gearbox and lifted out.  Exhaust is off, bulkhead is almost completely stripped with brakes and steering assemblies still to go.  Vents and bug mesh is removed, and radiator panel is obviously off as well. 


Sunday, 29 January 2017

Restoration - Day 5

Day 5 - Restoration (29.01.17)

 Day 5 started with drilling out more blasted screw heads, this time to remove the splash guard from the footwell

 Drivers wing removed fairly easily as most of the bolts were missing, presumably from when the engine was replaced

 The passenger side took considerably longer to remove thanks to four silly rusty clips holding the wiring loom to the inner guard

 Some minor rot found on the passenger side door pillar.....

 .... and some on the driver's side.

After being told by people to be careful that the bulkhead might be rotten under the windscreen, I was pleased to find it was as good as new once the windscreen was lowered.


 Windscreen removed and weather seal scraped off revealing the rust free bulkhead

End of day 5

Monday, 23 January 2017

Restoration - Day 4

Day 4 - Restoration (22.01.17)


Day 4 and I am really getting to see some of Leif's secrets.  My aim for the day was to loosen all fixings for the rear tub, and I am glad to say that I achieved that, but it took a lot longer than expected, with a few hurdles along the way.

In order to remove the tub, the B-pillars first had to be removed. To do this I had to remove the repair panel that had been added to the passenger side of the tub.  I was really interested to see what the panel was covering and after a lot of drilling of rivets, and grinding of body filler to expose those rivets, the result was somewhat anti-climatic with only a few holes in the original skin; presumably caused by rot due to the water tank behind.  The effort taken to fit the new skin, and the amount of filler used to blend the joint was in my mind excessive, but on the positive note, I now plan to repair the original skin, leaving the tub intact rather than fitting the replacement side I have in my parts pile.

Repair skin - Exposed pink line is where repair panel stops and filler has been used to blend to original panel.  A crack in the filler was an indication to the repair, in addition to the abnormally placed rivets

Thank goodness for friends with the right tools!  This made light work of finding the rivets buried in the filler

Dusty work!

Repair skin removed and original body revealed.  There is definitely no doubt about the original body colour!

There is a lot of filler still to be removed!

Bleeding bullet holes? Haha

Covered up rot

More covered up rot

With the repair panel removed I could access the last few rivets holding the B-pillars in place, drill them out and remove the pillars in their entirety.  

I knew the B-pillars were in bad shape, but I had no idea just how bad.  The C-pillars on both sides are only attached by a lightweight repair which is basically a cosmetic cover up. The B-pillars which I had noticed were a different colour, could now clearly be seen as a rough replacement. I can only assume the original pillars rusted out and this was a DIY repair solution.


B-pillars removed, and very fragile

Drivers side C-pillar completely rotten. I must say it is hardly surprising given the design of this section. The extended sill rail serves no purpose other than to collect mud and trap it. The result is inevitable

Passenger side C-pillar. Yes, as bad as the driver's side

Close up - looks like something from the Titanic!

Driver's side cosmetic cover up piece hiding what is below. This is all that holds the C-pillar to the sill rail

Passenger side cover up
Cover up piece on the driver's side did well to conceal the damage

What I have.......

.... what I would like to have!

The part pictured above is what the B-pillar is supposed to be like, but I am not sure if it is available anymore.  I found this picture on a forum post from 2010 where people were in search of it.  As it turns out this same piece fits Defender 110's as well as Series vehicles.  The difference in wheelbase is apparently in the tub. (please don't quote me on this, but do let me know if you have two of these parts in your possession!)

So, what to do? Well, thankfully I have two spare B-pillar sections from a Series 3, they are old and rusty but hopefully they are better than what I have, and after some internet searching and talking to my brother in the UK, it looks like YRM metal solutions might be the answer:


 YRM Replacement sill rail

YRM Replacement B-pillar bottom

YRM Replacement C-pillar bottom

So, all in all, an interesting da. Next, off with the wings!

Friday, 16 October 2015

Two men called Peter

Those of you who have been following my blog will by now know that the whole reason for me writing it has been to document my experiences within the Australian auto enthusiast community. I have met so many amazing people over the last few years, and in the last month I have met two more, coincidentally they are both called Peter.

Peter C. I met through the simple sale of a series 3 transmission tunnel cover on Gumtree. As it turns out Peter is not only a Landy nut like me, but he also works in the same industry as me.  Peter is currently restoring a Series 3 short wheel base with pain staking attention to detail making the restoration nothing short of jaw dropping! Having been to see it, I found myself not only inspired but also a little nervous about what lies ahead as I begin the work to restore Leif. Either way, I am excited about learning and cannot wait to get stuck into the project.

Peter C's inspirational series 3 restoration.

The second Peter, Peter F, I will sadly probably never meet as he lives on the other side of the country from me, but that does not make him any less important.  

Peter F contacted me via my Facebook page offering a 6 cylinder bell housing for sale. We got "chatting" and it turned out that he also had a complete and running Land Rover 2.6 litre, 6 cylinder engine and a Fairey overdrive for sale. The engine had been removed from his own Landy to make way for a TDI conversion, and the overdrive had not been necessary as he had a high ratio transfer box.

Keen to buy everything but struggling with the freight costs, Peter F's generosity came to the forefront and we struck up a deal that I am eternally grateful for.

Leif's new heart (original 2.6L 6 cylinder Land Rover engine)
The red paint will have to go!

Fairey Overdrive, and Peter F's toes

Everything looks to be in fantastic shape.


This weekend the engine, overdrive and bell housing will be packed onto a pallet and delivered to the first of the two transport companies who will bring it the 3,100km to Perth, where Peter C. has offer to help me collect and store it until required.

Road Trip!!!

What about Cactus Jack you may ask? Well I am happy to say he is off to a new home, in the new year; to a new owner who isn't called Peter, haha.

In time Cactus Jack may well be known as plain old "Jack" which is the best outcome I could think of.

Wednesday, 19 August 2015

UGU takes on more gravity

I have been meaning to write this blog post for almost a year, and finally got the motivation to do it when a fellow W114 enthusiast asked what I have done to UGU with regards to her ride height.

As those of you who have been following my posts will know, I am keen to keep UGU looking as original as possible, but there was one thing that had really bothered me which made me stray from that ethos. That issue was how much higher her nose sat relative to the rear.  This first came to my attention when UGU was lined up at a Mercedes Club display day.  Sitting between a W113 Pagoda and a W108, her nose was notably higher than her neighbours.

UGU with her nose in the air (5th car in line from the foreground)

I asked a few other owners if their coupes had the same issue; the general consensus was that they all sat lower at the back, perhaps to give that sportier look, but UGU's nose did seem to be excessively high with almost 90mm clearance between the top of the tyre to the wheel arch, while the back was almost flush.

Front wheel clearance, looking very high!

Front tyre clearance almost 90mm....

...whilst the back was almost flush.

After displaying UGU at another classic car meet where the following photo was taken, I  decided enough was enough - it was time to do something!

Professional photograph of UGU at Custom Cars & Coffee meeting

After checking that the rear shock absorbers were not worn causing the rear end to sag, I set about sourcing a spare set of front springs which could be reset to bring the front of the car down.  I find it amusing that I have kept the original even though I am positive I will never fit them again!

Sourced from a fellow enthusiast, spare set of front springs

Now, I know this is going to cause some purists to get their knickers in a knot, but this is what I did; it is not a recommendation for others.

Rather than taking a hack saw and cutting a few lengths of the springs I took them to a suspension specialist who heated the springs and reset them, reducing the overall length by 45mm.  Mercedes-Benz springs are cold wound, which is why heating them will cause some people to get upset; but this is what I did after much discussion with other car folk.

The picture below still confuses me, and I have no explanation for it. The freshly painted spring on top is the replacement spring.  You can see the coils on the left side are closer together than the ones on the right; these are the ones that were reset.  The confusing bit is that even after the replacement spring was reset, it is still longer than the original! Like I said, I can't explain it, maybe someone reading this will be able to shed some light on the matter.  

Replacement and original spring.  
Confusingly the reset replacement is longer than the original

With the help of a friend who has built one of the most unique classic Benz show cars I have ever seen, we spent the afternoon fitting the new springs to UGU.

I have heard some horror stories about trying to replace the front springs on a W114 due to restrictions on spring clamp locations. As it turns out we didn't even use spring clamps, just three trolley jacks, two axle stands and a few spanners.


UGU gets new springs with the help of a friend

With UGU up on stands and the front wheels removed, we tackled one side at a time. The  lower control arm was raised to remove the tension of the shock absorber so the bottom two retaining nuts could be removed.  The jack was then lowered and repositioned with another alongside, each one on the hinge points of the the control arm.  We then removed the two cam bolts (a fantastic fixing meaning that we didn't need to worry about alignment as they can only be fitted one way), the two jacks were carefully lowered at the same time allowing the spring to extend to its full length.  The spring will take on a scary bend when doing this so please be careful.  As I said this is what I did, it is not a recommendation to others, and I take no responsibility for harm caused to others by doing it.

With all compression removed from the spring it was removed and the new one seated in the lower control arm before the two jacks were used once again to lift the arm back into position.  I will admit that this was a very fiddly job as the shock absorber needs to be located at the same time the cam bolts are being fitted, all of which happens while the spring is under compression.  Careful adjustments with the trolley jacks finally allowed the bolts to slide home.

One side done, repeat for the other, job done! All that was needed next was to get the wheel alignment checked at the local tyre shop.

After taking UGU for a drive, the front began to settle down and by the time I got home the 45mm resetting of the replacement springs, directly translated to the height reduction in UGU's nose.  For the first time she sat level, and I love the look!

I have now been driving UGU for about a year since she was lowered and I have not had a single issue, no rubbing, bottoming out, and if anything I find she tackles speed bumps much better.  

So there you have an inexpensive exercise thanks to the help of a few friends with some knowhow, making one very happy me.




Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Garage Decoration

When I started writing this blog, my intention was to record my automotive learning curve and the amazing people and fellow enthusiasts I met along the way.

Today I met one of those awesome people.

With all the bits and pieces I have been accumulating ready for when I start work on Leif, our house was looking a bit of a mess, so my wife and I (mainly me) decided it would be a good idea to get a tool box to store everything in until it can be used in the garage.

I started looking online and quickly became overwhelmed at the vast range on offer.  I decided to ask others for their opinion and recommendations, so I posted a question in the Western Australia Facebook group "Steel Bumper Car Cruisers WA"; a group where I knew there was a lot of practical hands on people.


Very quickly recommendations came in for me to speak to Cameron North of Tool & Consumable Solutions Australia (TCS Australia) for assistance.



Cameron was awesome.  I told him what I was looking for and my budget and he soon came back with two options for my consideration.  After making my selection I transferred the payment and today, 2 days later, my purchases were dropped off at my house.

Delivery!

After a good chat with Cameron I couldn't wait to open my boxes and check out my new purchase, the first tool box I have ever owned!

 Sporty wheels, and we all know red goes faster

 Some simple assembly and hey presto....

...so excited!!!!  
(There is a handle to go on the side but I don't need it to be fitted at the moment)

I was really impressed with the solidness and weight of the unit, but it was the spring loaded latch on each drawer to stop them flying open that made me smile the most.

Each drawer has a lock to stop them flying open, in addition to the key lock.

It will be at least 6 months before my garage is finished, so in the mean time it will sit in my house and store my stuff.

 Socket set fits beautifully within the lower section

A new home for my manuals and restored Land Rover badges for Leif

Thanks to those who got me in contact with TCS, and thanks to Cam; you certainly put a smile on my face.