Check your check straps

When I think of the moving parts of a car that suffer the most amount of wear and tear, my thoughts are always directed to the drivetrain; engine, gearbox, driveshaft, differential, half-shafts, wheel bearings etc.  But when you actually think about it, none of these things work without you first having to open the door.

With this in mind, I considered how many thousands of times UGU's doors had been opened and closed in the past 43 years, and why they now showed signs of wear and would no longer hold open.

This used to annoy the life out of both my wife and I.  It was as if UGU was attacking us with her doors every time we tried to get in and out.  Even on a flat surface the doors would close hitting us on the shin or another part of the leg!  I had no idea why the doors would't stay open so I posted the question on the Facebook group W(A)114/115, and the guys there told me that my check straps were knackered.

For those that don't know what a check strap is, just like I didn't, the check strap is that flat metal bar that you see below the interior light switch in the door reveal which I have referenced in a previous post.  That metal bar connects the door to the main body structure of the car and serves two purposes: the first we have mentioned, to hold the door open, and the second function is to stop the door opening too far if caught be a strong wind for example.  Without the check strap the door would swing around and hit the front wing damaging the bodywork.

Check strap connection to main body towards bottom of image

I have not been able to determine if the /8 has different strength check straps. At this stage I do not believe that they do, even though the coupé doors are significantly bigger than the sedans, which I would imagine would put more stress on the check strap.  Perhaps this is why coupé's seem to all suffer from this problem.

A simple way to check if your car's check strap is broken is to try and wiggle the check strap.  It should not move from side to side; if it does, it is broken.

So, with the problem identified, what to do next? Get replacement parts...

I got on the phone and rang a few different MB parts suppliers.  Initially I was looking for new parts, but after being quoted $300AUD each I started looking for good second hand parts despite being told that I was wasting my time as they would just fail again.  Let me tell you, this is not true, second hand parts can work just fine!  Two years later I still have had no issues with my replacement parts.

I eventually sourced one unit in Arizona, USA via Ebay.  Even though I need two, I decided one was better than none, so when it arrived the next week I decided to attend to the passenger door first.  This made sense as only I ever open the drivers door and am more likely to forgive UGU for attacking me with her door - I find it hard to hold a grudge with her.

To access the check strap you first need to strip down the interior door trim; map pockets, arm rest, window winder and door card to name a few.  Despite their age, every single piece unscrewed and unclipped with ease. This was one of the first DIY jobs I attended to with UGU, and it was my first real appreciation for the renowned Mercedes-Benz build quality.

   

Passenger door with interior trim removed

With the trim out of the way, I fished about in the bottom of the door removing the dirt and muck that had gathered over the years. It was here I found the first part of the broken check strap; it was very broken, smashed to smithereens in fact.

Remnants of original check strap

This is what it is supposed to look like

To remove the check strap from the main car body, remove the c-clip on the bottom side of the retaining pin and pull the pin upwards.  At this point it is worth using something to hold the door open as it will want to close and it will keep hitting you, either tie the door to something, or prop it open. In true tyro fashion I used a wheelie-bin to prop it open, haha.

Next, undo the two bolts on the edge of the door and the single retaining screw on the inside face of the door. That is it.  Pull out the old check strap and have a look at what you have, and I bet it will be scrap.

Before installing the replacement part I would recommend cleaning it, re-greasing it, and if you are precious, painting the check strap the correct colour as it should be body coloured.

Whilst the door is stripped down it is also worth a good clean and investigation of the rest of the door inner parts such as the window mechanism and door lock.

To install the new part I retraced my removal steps. I loosely bolted and screwed the check strap to the door and set about connecting the metal bar to the car body.  Physics was never my strongest subject, but at this point I realised how the weight and momentum of the door makes opening and extending the check strap effortless. Doing this when you only have a tiny metal bar to pull on isn't so easy!  Only when you have finally extended the check strap to a point where it can reach the main body fixing point, whilst allowing you to fit between the car sill and door will you be able to line up the retaining pin. Push the pin all the way through the main body fixing and secure it with the c-clip you removed as one of the first steps.

With this done you will be able to open the door and fully extend the check strap (if you have not done so already).  If the new part is working the door will now stay open unassisted.

You can now tighten up the bolts and screws firmly, securing the check strap casing to the door.

Open and close the door a few times and make sure there are no grinding or groaning noises.  Also make sure the door is not hitting the wing when fully opened, and that it will stay open.  If all looks good, refit the interior door trim and that's it, job done.

Approximately 6 months past before I was able to attend to my drivers door as I struggled to find another replacement.  It was only after talking to a fellow member of my local MB car club that we realised that the check strap casing is the same as on a W108 which he coincidently had as a parts car.

The W108 check strap casing turned out to be the same as the W114, however the metal arm was a different length, shorter from memory.  This is an easy problem to overcome and this is how:

Strip down interior door trim, and prop open the door (wheelie bin worked for me)

Remove what is left of the existing check strap. It made sense that the drivers side had suffered more wear than the passenger side

This is one of the wheels from the existing check strap.  As you can see this wheel has not turned properly for years. Instead it has just ground up and down the casing creating these flat spots

Using a large flat head screw driver and hammer tap the top and smallest level of the spring out of the casing.  With this removed all pieces come loose and can be moved out of the way allowing the metal arm and connecting wheels to come free.

Top level of spring removed allowing all parts to become loose

The wheels on the arms are not physically connected to the metal arm, they fit onto a pin and once in the casing everything keeps in place.

Reassembled check strap (as mentioned before the metal arm is supposed to be body coloured but I like the shiny metal look)

Note: The metal arm has a specific curvature to allow it to open with the swing of the door.  If this is not put in incorrectly it will not work and you risk breaking the check strap and undoing all your hard work so please take care, and take note of the position of the original before you take it apart.  I learnt this the hard way and had to take it all apart again, but thankfully didn't break anything.

With the newly completed check strap, fit and test as per previous instruction.

UGU basking in the 38+C degrees with her door open unassisted, hurray!

I really hope that this will help someone else, and save them the annoyance of being attacked by their car doors, haha.

Tyro Part Mart - Item 2 Indicator lens

Following the rebuild of my headlights, I now have a spare indicator lens for sale.

This lens has been used, but is un-faded and in good condition.
Suitable for all European type headlights for W114 & W115 vehicles: 220, 250 & 280.
Fits both headlight units on left and right side
Quantity - 1 only
Part number: N/A

AUD $8 excluding postage.

Tail lights: too hot to handle

The W114/W115 hit the market in 1968 as the first mid-sided Benz, later becoming the E Class we all know today. It was the year of manufacture that gave the model its other common references of Strich-Acht, /8 and Stroke 8.   

Originally only available as a sedan, a coupé variant was added to the range in 1969 which was the year UGU was built.  Her VIN# ends with the numbers 002510, so perhaps this means she was the 2,510th coupe made?

In 1973 the /8 underwent a face lift creating the series 2 which, to the untrained eye may not appear that different to the series 1.

Externally the changes included a lower and wider grille to match the styling of the larger W116 (S Class) with was introduced to the market in 1972. The /8's front double bumper was discontinued, retaining only a single bumper, and the front door quarter windows were deleted.  New mouldings were fitted to the A pillars to prevent water and dirt from the windscreen flowing around onto the side windows, and finally, with the same consideration for safety, new ribbed tail light lenses were introduced. As with the new front grille these tail lights were similar to those on the W116.

Mercedes-Benz display circa mid 1970's. Note W114 series 2 in the foreground with W116 beyond.  If you look hard, right at the back you will see a crash test W116, presumably to show the cars superior safety features.  You will also see a Citroen sign, making me believe this is a motor show display rather than a Mercedes-Benz showroom.

Image source unknown.

The idea behind this type of lens was that the ribs would prevent the entire lens from becoming obscured by road dirt and therefore making the car more visible to following traffic in poor weather.

Whilst I appreciate the advancement in safety, I personally prefer the original flat lenses with their chrome surround.  The ribbed lens is bigger than it's predecessor which meant the chrome surround was deleted.  In doing this, an element of visual bulk was added to the rear of the car which can be seen in these pictures:

 

Series 1 tail lights. Note the flat lens and chrome surround.

Image source: Mercedes-Benz W114 & W115 International forum

Series 2 tail lights. Note the new ribbed lens with no chrome.

 Image source: www.autoevolution.com

It's not often that you get to see what the tail lights of the car you drive look like at night unless someone has stolen your car and you are in hot pursuit haha.

To overcome this, I often find it useful to reverse up to a reflective surface such as a glazed shop front, so that I can do a quick check to make sure the reversing, tail and brake lights are all working. Indicators are an easy one to identify as the "clicker" and dash light flash speed increases once a bulb blows.

Not long after purchasing UGU I did a check of all the lights and everything was working, so no further inspection was done. It wasn't until my wife followed me home one evening in her car that she noticed that the drivers side light looked "weird" and different to the passenger one.  Once home I turned the lights back on and got down on my knees to look at the lights at eye level. It wasn't until I did this that it became obvious there was something wrong. The drivers side reversing light, located below the tail light, was being illuminated by the tail light above.

The next morning I opened the boot and unwound the two plastic caps that hold the lens in place allowing it to be removed exposing the inners of the lights. The problem was immediately apparent - the inside of the unit was melted and completely destroyed.

I pulled all the bulbs out and checked their wattage against the helpful stamped markings Mercedes-Benz included on the light reflector. This should stop someone installing the wrong bulb, but alas this was not the case with UGU.  All of the bulbs I removed were the correct wattage indicating that the damage had been caused by a previously installed and later removed bulb that had too high a wattage.

Warning: the following images may cause distress!

I apologise in advance and am aware it may be confusing, but the photographs below are a mixture of the left over parts which is why the melted area has no electrical component behind it.

As you can see in the pictures the reflector is extensively damaged and the division between the tail light and reversing light below is very distorted allowing the light to be emitted in both chambers.  You can also see the numbers indicating that a 5W bulb was the correct size to have been installed.

The heat from the incorrect bulb was so intense that the damage was not limited to the reflector but also melted the light lens.

There was further damage to the light reflector too, but not caused by the bulb.  Somehow someone had broken the end of the reflector off, perhaps by standing on it, but regardless of how it happened, I now had a melted and broken reflector that was destined for the bin.

I got online and started looking for a new rear light.  I sourced what I needed in Germany via Ebay, and the new light arrived a week later.  It was in great condition, the coloured lens was bright and un-faded, the chrome surround was in "as new" condition and it even came complete with bulbs!! It was like Christmas.

Removing the damaged tail light from the car is very straight forward and all done from inside the boot.  First unplug the electrical connection, then undo the four small nuts (one in each corner) remembering to keep a hand on the light as you don't want it to fall out of the car and smash on the ground.

With all the nuts removed and the electrical connection unplugged, the light will pull out from the outside.

Time for a cup of tea.

The simplest thing to have done would have been to install the new fitting in its entirety, however I noticed on the back there was a stamp stating it was produced in 1973.  To be true to UGU I decided to dismantle the 1973 light and rebuild it within the original casing.  This could not have been easier and only took an hour including cleaning of each part.

With the fitting complete it was time to reinstall it and check everything was working, which thankfully it was.  The only thing I would say to be careful of when doing this is to check you install the rubber seal carefully as you do not want water getting inside the boot through the light.

With everything working I fitted the new lens and the job was done. Easy.

I now have a few pieces left over that may be useful to someone else, such as the chrome surround and plastic housing.  I will list these in the Tyro Part Mart should anyone want to get in touch.

If you think professionals are expensive, wait until you see what an amateur will cost you!

The title of this post was the wording of a meme that I saw on Facebook several months ago.

These words struck a cord with me and speak of a mindset that I wish more people would take into consideration when undertaking any project, be that a life event or in the working world. In the long run it will save you a lot of stress and a lot of money.

For this very reason, not long after buying UGU and joining the MBCCWA, I made enquires to find a qualified mechanic who could give UGU a thorough examination and tell me exactly what I had bought.  The mechanic recommended to me, from day one has been amazing, and whilst I am frustrated that I am not capable do the work myself, I take comfort in the fact a talented professional takes care of my car, and has always been knowledgeable, genuine and honest with me. Who else can say that about their mechanic?


When UGU's advertisement appeared on gumtree this is what it said:

Not a lot of information you will agree, and the photographs are not much better as they didn't even show the full car, but it was enough to get me excited and so I lifted the phone.

At this stage I didn't even know for sure that the car was a W114, but it was a coupe, it looked original and was in my price range.  Being a relative novice to buying cars, and in particular a classic car, I actually didn't know what to ask when the seller answered the phone.  I think I blurted out "why are you selling it" and "does it have its original number plates?"

The gentleman owner was selling it so he could get his wife a new car, and it did have it's original number plates.  The very next morning I was standing in the seller's driveway, which as those of you who have read previous posts will know, lead to my purchase of UGU.

This may be a ridiculous notion, but I believe if a car still has its original number plates some 43 years since they were first fitted, it means the car has always been in the ownership of someone who has at least considered it important to keep the car licensed and roadworthy, which likely means it has been used and therefore maintained. (I am aware this will not be relevant in other countries, but in Western Australia if the car becomes unregistered, when it is reregistered, new number plates are issued).

During my inspection of the car I tried to look like I knew what I was doing, so I opened the bonnet, yep, there was an engine and it looked clean and unmolested with no obvious leaks.  There were only a few oil stains on the garage floor where the car sat, I couldn't see any major rust in the body and the interior looked great. After further opening and closing of doors, bonnet, boot and tyre kicking I took it for a drive.

Straight away I was surprised how light the car was to drive and that it had power steering.  It accelerated strongly, changed gears well and stopped quickly and in a straight line under heavy braking.  I couldn't think of anything else to check so concentrated on trying to hide my excitement and smile while I negotiated the price with the owner. The deal was done.

My wife drove away in her car and I followed in UGU.  At the first service station we pulled in and I got out to put some fuel in.  My inexperience immediately became apparent as I wondered what fuel to use.  Thankfully the car had the original manuals so I quickly looked up "fuel" and saw 98 octane unleaded was required.  I got out of the car and wondered around it checking both sides for the fuel filler flap but couldn't find it.  By this stage I was getting flustered as other cars started queueing behind me so I got back into the car I drove away from the pump and once again referred to the manual.  How I missed the large rectangular flap next to the rear number plate I will never know!!

With the car filled up, a quick look underneath revealed no sign of leaks from the fuel tank, so I wound down the windows and headed for the freeway with a smile from ear to ear.

Three weeks after the initial purchase, and two weeks after my first contact with Walter Epple, I drove the short distance to his business, Auto Exclusive Perth located in East Perth.

   

UGU at Auto Exclusive Perth

I was so nervous leaving UGU there, not because of where we were, but because I was worried I may have bought trouble as I will admit my initial inspection was conducted with rose tinted glasses and excitement racing through my veins.

   

Walter Epple & UGU in the workshop at Auto Exclusive Perth

Contact Auto Exclusive Perth

Walter was friendly and told me he would give me a call when the car was ready so I left.  As with any car I had owned before, I assumed I would be picking UGU up the same day, but no phone call came so I waited. The next afternoon I called to see if I should come in, Walter advised me that he needed to replace a few bits and that the car would be ready the following day.  True to his word the next day UGU was ready to go home.  I went into the office and Walter went through the issues he had discovered, the most concerning was a fuel leak which was dangerously close to the manifold.  He politely asked where the car had been serviced before and I told him the previous owner had a "friend" i.e. an amateur working on it.  (refer to post title)

Once I told him this, he seemed relieved that what he was about to say was not going to insult me,  "that person had no clue what they were doing!"  Somehow the fuel filter had been put in back to front, starving the engine so the carburettors had all been messed about with to try and make the car run, the idle speed was wrong, the fuel lines were badly corroded, the fan was in back to front and the oil cap had no gasket.  Not a great start but it could have been worse.

Since then, UGU has been back for much other work and maintenance, including a complete overhaul of the brake system including lines, hoses, discs and pads, further cleaning and adjustment to the carburettors, new tie-rod ends, new steering dampener, new subframe mounts, repair of dash cluster lights, new rear muffler, a rebuild of the gearbox (a bill not for the faint hearted), and most recently the installation of a replacement starter motor.

  

Rebuilt and reinstalled gearbox

Not long after the gearbox was rebuilt UGU went back to Auto Exclusive for a general service. I just happened to mention to Walter that sometimes when changing from 1st to 2nd gear the engine revs seemed to lift.  I can best describe this as someone driving a manual car and changing gear without lifting your foot from the accelerator.

Later in the day I went back to pick UGU up and Walter said to me "I am really unhappy with your car", my heart sank fearing he had found something else wrong.  He went on to tell me that the gearbox specialist he had outsourced the rebuild to had done another job for him and it had become problematic, and he feared the same would happen with me.  Whilst that work came with a one year warranty, Walter said he was not happy going back to the same place and asked if I would be happy for him to keep UGU so that he could take the gearbox back out and send it away to be rebuilt elsewhere at his expense.  I was so taken aback I didn't know what to say, I felt thankful and yet so guilty that he was going to be thousands of dollars out of pocket.

A week later Walter called to say UGU was now ready to go home. At Walter's workshop he showed me some of the pieces that had been taken out of the gearbox following the first rebuild. They included torn seals and pins that were too short as well as some other bits all meaning that the gearbox would definitely have failed again.

Six months on, every time I see Walter he always asks me how the gearbox is going, to which my response is always a positive,"very well."

All this work to UGU has come at considerable cost and many people would probably have just sold the car, but like most die hard enthusiasts, my car has become part of the family and even served as our wedding car in 2013.  Whilst it is not ideal I am happy to make sacrifices elsewhere so that I can keep her on the road and my passion alive. After all, the cheapest car you can have, is the car you currently own.

UGU in her wedding attire